Countless cities across India carry layered histories woven with threads of trade, migration and cultural exchange. Yet, many remain in the shadows in the broader narrative of the nation’s past. Kozhikode stands apart in that its ethnography and food culture so deeply intertwined that every dish becomes a testament to the city’s enduring dialogue between global influences and local traditions.
Kozhikode has long been a gastronomic haven, where heritage and innovation coexist seamlessly. Food here is more than sustenance; it embodies identity, history and celebration. For locals, it is a taste of home. For visitors, it is an invitation to immerse themselves in a culture that values hospitality as much as flavour.
A variety of halwa on display. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul.)
A Port of Many Flavours
The culinary identity of Kozhikode owes much to its historical position as a hub of the Indian Ocean trade network. The city’s air, once thick with the aroma of pepper, cardamom and cinnamon, reflected its status as the crown jewel of the Malabar Coast. This thriving trade brought not only spices but also culinary influences that shaped its foodscape.
When Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama anchored off Kozhikode’s shores in 1498, he encountered a bustling port city thriving on trade. His diaries described a cosmopolitan society where Arab merchants prayed in mosques, Chinese sailors haggled in markets, and locals effortlessly navigated these interactions, speaking multiple languages and sharing meals infused with global flavours.
The Romans, Egyptians and, later, the Arabs, often delayed by monsoons, stayed longer than intended, marrying locals and introducing their culinary preferences. The Arabs brought biriyani, which Kozhikode made its own. The Portuguese, too, left an indelible mark on Kozhikode’s food culture, introducing the now Malayali breakfast staple puttu (cylindrical steamed rice cake), which they picked up from Southeast Asia. Spicy chilies, also a Portuguese import, became indispensable, lending heat to dishes like fish mulakittathu (spicy fish curry) to fiery mulaku chammanthi (chili chutney). Tapioca, another Portuguese contribution, became a vital food source during times of famine.
Coffee, brought by Arab traders, evolved into a local tradition. By the mid-twentieth century, coffee houses had emerged as spaces for conversation and camaraderie. Whether it was the strong kattan kaapi (strong black coffee) or the sweet karupetti kaapi (palm jaggery coffee), coffee became part of the daily ritual of Kozhikode’s local population.
The British added their touch as well, popularising tea and introducing baking. Bakeries such as Modern Bakery and Sankaran Bakery became institutions, offering buttery biscuits and plum cake inspired by colonial recipes. The story goes that when British planter Murdoch Brown arrived at Anjarakandy Cinnamon Estate in North Kerala, he sought out Mampally Bapu, founder of the Royal Biscuit Company in Thalassery in 1880. Holding a cake, Brown asked Bapu to replicate it. With just a sniff, Bapu discerned its ingredients and recreated it—likely crafting India’s first cake. His legacy endures in bakeries across the state under different names—Modern Bakery, Cochin Bakery and Santha Bakery.
Mappila Cuisine: The Soul of Kozhikode
At the heart of Kozhikode’s culinary identity lies Mappila Muslim cuisine, a harmonious blend of Arab, Persian and Kerala traditions. Dishes like pathiri (flattened rice pancake) and mutta mala (egg fritters), with their use of coconut, rice and ghee showcase the fusion of local influences with global imports.
Paragon Restaurant on Kannur Road. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul.)
The crown jewel of Mappila cuisine is Kozhikode biriyani—layers of short-grained Kaima rice, tender meat, caramelised onions and slow-cooked spices in a distinctive ratio (which differs from one restaurant to another). Lighter than its northern counterparts, it relies on fragrant spices to bring out its unique flavour. Whether enjoyed at the iconic Paragon Restaurant—ranked fifth in 2023 among the world’s greatest restaurants by food guide company Taste Atlas—or a roadside eatery, it became a dish that left a mark on all who tasted it. While debates about its superiority over Thalassery biriyani abound, its place in Kozhikode’s heart is irreplaceable.
Food also played a critical role in fostering communal harmony. Political scientist Ashutosh Varshney attributed Kozhikode’s peaceful coexistence to its syncretic culture, where shared meals brought communities together. Communal dining, introduced by Arab traders, became a hallmark of feasts and ceremonies. The custom of preparing dishes like aleesa (a wheat and meat porridge) and an intricate layered snacks such as chatti pathiri (a stuffed sweet pastry akin to baklava) reflect the sophistication of Mappila cuisine.
In a curious turn of events, the flow of culinary influences from the Middle East have now returned. While Kozhikode once welcomed traders who shaped its cuisine, the Gulf migration since the 1970s saw the Mappila diaspora bringing back flavours from the Middle East. Modern influences added new dimensions to Mappila cuisine, introducing dishes like alfaham (grilled chicken), shawarma (wrap with grilled meat) and kuzhi manthi (spiced rice and meat), which have been adapted with local spices and techniques. These dishes have now quickly become staples, served in roadside eateries and upscale restaurants alike.
Festive seasons such as Ramadan elevate Mappila cuisine to its most elaborate expression. The breaking of the fast—whether in Kuttichira, Thalassery or beyond—is marked by a symphony of flavours, served in carefully curated stages. From the savoury irachi pathiri (meat-filled pancake) and spicy kozhiyada (fried dumplings) to the sweet unnakkaya (banana and coconut rolls), every dish reflects the ingenuity and resourcefulness of Mappila culinary traditions. This vibrant cuisine is more than sustenance; it is a celebration of community, history and the art of bringing diverse influences on the table.
The Melting Pot of Mittai Theruvu
Mittai Theruvu (literally Sweet Meat Street), or SM Street, is the beating heart of Kozhikode’s culinary and cultural life. Historically, this street was a microcosm of the city’s diversity. Shops run by Gujaratis sold syrup-laden sweets alongside Bhatkalis and the Konkani-speaking Memons, whose culinary traditions mingled seamlessly with local flavours. The Bohras introduced sweets, while Memons contributed kebabs and samosas. Even the humble banana fry, a ubiquitous snack, owes its origins to these waves of influence.
Arya Bhavan on SM Street. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul.)
Inside Arya Bhavan on SM Street. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul.)
Kidson Corner, the gateway to SM Street, is a treasure trove of nostalgic memories for old-timers. This bustling street once offered everything from daily essentials to luxury goods—both originals and imitations. Beyond Kidson Corner stands Radha Theatre, one of the city’s first grand two-storey cinema houses, flanked by Arya Bhavan, a legendary vegetarian eatery famed for its masala dosa, vada, and its British-era Anglo-Swiss clock presiding over diners. Across from Radha, the humble Modern Lunch Home offered budget-friendly meals. And for those with a sweet tooth, the upstairs eatery of Krishna Maharaj Halwa Store—accessible only via a steep wooden staircase— served mouth-watering fried bananas.
Halwa being prepared at T.K.M, a popular local shop on Halwa Street. (Pictures credits: Joseph Rahul.)
Nearby, Lucky Hotel once reigned as a biryani haven until Top Form emerged with modern non-vegetarian fare at the other end of the street. Shahensha Hotel and Kamaliya added their legendary porottas (layered flatbread) to SM Street’s rich culinary palette. Shops like Vasudevan and Shastha became pilgrimage sites for snack lovers. Malabar Halwa Store, Sankaran Bakery and Modern Bakery once dominated the bakery scene, with Sankaran’s roasted nuts and Malabar’s colourful halwas stealing the show.
Shankaran Bakery on SM Street. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul.)
A stone’s throw away, Queen’s Hotel became infamous not for its food but for its cabaret shows, a common sight once in Kerala. These performances, popular until banned in 1985, drew eclectic crowds that often scattered dramatically during police raids.
Adaminte Chayakkada near Kozhikode Beach. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul.)
Today, Kozhikode continues to evolve. As the sun sets over the Arabian Sea, new cafes catering to a younger, cosmopolitan crowd have sprung up near the beach, offering burgers, pasta and even beef brisket. With three Starbucks and numerous local options open round the clock, the city seamlessly blends tradition and modernity. Whether it’s a steaming cup of coffee, a plate of biryani or a bite of halwa, every flavour tells the story of a city that has always welcomed the world to its table.
