An Architectural Overview of Kozhikode

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Athira S B

As an academician, architect, artist, and research scholar, Athira S B’s expertise encompasses Traditional Architecture, built heritage, visual arts, and architectural pedagogy. She is currently pursuing a PhD from the National Institute of Technology, Calicut, Kerala and works as an associate Professor at KMCT College of Architecture, Manassery, Calicut. With numerous publications, she is an engaged participant of INTACH and the Society of Architectural Historians in California.

Kozhikode, or historically Calicut, once the capital of an independent kingdom under the Zamorins, emerged as a pivotal centre of global trade in the Middle Ages, earning the sobriquet ‘City of Spices’ for its involvement in the spice trade, especially black pepper. The city was a powerful economic hub, serving as the crossroads for Persian, Arab, Chinese and European traders, who brought with them foreign influences that, in the long run, seeped into the sociocultural fabric of the Malabar region. This cross-pollination of ideas and cultures is evident in the hybrid architectural styles that populate the city. The arrival of the Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama in Calicut in 1498 marked the beginning of European colonisation in India, a milestone that critically influenced the region’s architecture, economy and culture. 

Calicut’s warm and humid coastal climate necessitated the use of specific building materials such as laterite stone, wood, clay tiles and lime in building construction, each chosen for its suitability to the region’s geography. The laterite stone of the Malabar area, known for its porosity, provides excellent temperature regulation in buildings. Durable local hardwoods, including teak and rosewood, used for beams and furnishings, offer natural protection against termites and weathering in the coastal climate. While copper sheets were the predominant roofing material used for most buildings, which was susceptible to weather damage and began to leak, the Basel Mission’s introduction of clay tiles marked a much-needed advancement, eventually replacing copper sheet roofing of religious buildings. Until 1935, the roofs of all shops in Valiyangadi or Big Bazar, a prominent centuries-old market in the city, featured woven coconut or Palmyra-leaf thatched roofs, but replacing them with clay tiles has provided effective shelter from monsoon rains while aiding in temperature control. Lime, extracted from limestone, is incorporated into mortar and plaster, enabling moisture regulation in the humid climate. Collectively, these materials have produced enduring structures that exemplify the architectural heritage of Calicut. 

Religious Heritage 

Calicut’s religious structures—temples, mosques and churches—present a harmonious blend of traditional Kerala design and external influences, creating a unique architectural landscape in which religion and daily life intersect seamlessly. 

Tali Shiva temple.

Tali Shiva temple. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul)

Valayanad Devi Temple. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul)

Valayanad Devi Temple. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul)

The fourteenth-century Tali Shiva Temple is a prime example of traditional Kerala temple architecture. The temple features a two-storeyed sreekovil (sanctum sanctorum) designed in the shape of a chariot, adorned with brass murals and paintings depicting deities. The influence of local craftsmanship is evident in the carved wooden pillars and traditional roof structure. Laterite rocks and wood have been extensively employed, with brass decorations incorporated in specific sections. Within the temple, striking flagstaffs and lamp posts, where traditional oil lamps are illuminated in the evening, add to the grandeur. During the eighteenth century, significant restoration work was carried out at the temple by the Zamorin rulers, particularly in response to the destruction caused by Tipu Sultan’s invasion of Malabar, which is considered a milestone in the temple’s history. Valayanad Devi Temple, Thiruvannur Sree Mahadeva Temple and Azhakodi Devi Temple are other notable examples of traditional temple architecture in Calicut. These centuries-old temples are characterised by gabled roofs, intricate wood carvings and the masterful use of laterite stone.

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Mishkal Mosque. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul)

Mishkal Mosque. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul)

Devotees in prayer inside Mishkal Mosque. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul)

Devotees in prayer inside Mishkal Mosque. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul)

The first floor of Mishkal Mosque, constructed entirely of wood.

The first floor of Mishkal Mosque, constructed entirely of wood. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul)

The Mishkal Mosque in Kuttichira is an iconic structure in the Indo-Islamic architectural style, with a legacy spanning over 650 years. Built by Nakhuda Mishkal, an Arab trader, the mosque was originally a five-storeyed structure made of timber. Following damage during a Portuguese invasion in 1510 CE, the mosque was reconstructed as a four-storeyed building. Rather than featuring a dome and minarets in the traditional Islamic style, the building is characterised by multiple-tiered gables and the signature tiled roofing common in the region’s architectural tradition. Its 47 doors and 24 carved columns showcase the craftsmanship of local artisans. The gopuram-style semi-circular arches and wooden carvings further highlight this fusion of Hindu and Islamic architectural elements to form a new architectural idiom exclusive to the region. Another example is the thirteenth-century Muchundi mosque in Kuttichira, which features a double-tiered roof with floral woodwork, carved wooden pillars and a decorated gable. 

Muchundi Mosque. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul)

Muchundi Mosque. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul)

The interior view of Jami Mosque's wooden roof.

The interior view of Jami Mosque's wooden roof. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul)

Mother of God Church.

Mother of God Church. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul)

Inside Mother of God Church.

Inside Mother of God Church. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul)

St. Mary's Church.

St. Mary's Church. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul)

The churches in the city are notable examples of how European missionaries adapted local architectural techniques to create a distinctive style. The Mother of God Church, erected in 1513 by Portuguese settlers, was among the earliest Roman Catholic churches in Kerala. The Gothic-influenced design features lofty arches and an impressive façade, constructed with wire-cut clay bricks specially imported from Lisbon, which was chosen over local laterite by the builders, given the structure’s 30-metre height. The construction utilised local beach sand and lime for its plastering needs. The St. Mary’s Church, established in 1949 for the Syrian Catholic population of the city, incorporates Western features like a prominent steeple and vibrant stained-glass windows. One of the largest churches in Malabar, the CSI Cathedral, built by the Basel Mission in 1842, combines European and Kerala architectural styles, with elements such as sloping tiled roofs, wooden ceiling and Gothic windows. 

CSI Cathedral.

CSI Cathedral. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul)

The Parsi fire temple in the city, situated off the bustling SM Street, is a religious structure with a history spanning over two centuries. The Parsi community, who migrated primarily from regions in Gujarat and Maharashtra for trade purposes, established this sacred site in Calicut. The temple’s design incorporates elements from both Persian and Zoroastrian architectural traditions. Kozhikode is also home to a Jain temple—the Shri Kalikund Tirth. Situated on the Trikkovil Lane, the structure is over 500 years old and features tiled flooring, painted interiors and carved porticos.

Historic Neighbourhoods

The distinct settlement patterns of the Muslim community in Kuttichira, the Brahmin community in the Tali region and the Gujarati community near Valiyangadi reveal a confluence of cultural and architectural diversity within a compact 3-km radius. The Kuttichira settlement is characterised by its Islamic architectural elements, with the Mishkal Mosque forming the heart of the community and narrow streets surrounded by homes with inward-facing courtyards. The area near Tali Temple has a traditional linear layout with rows of houses flanking a central street, where the temple serves as the focal point. Meanwhile, the Gujarati settlement near Kozhikode south beach displays the influence of mercantile architecture, with large, ventilated houses and commercial spaces that blend the Surat and Vadodara style of construction with local Kerala styles. Despite their proximity, these neighbourhoods retain their unique identities through architectural styles, spatial layouts and cultural practices, a sign of adaptive urban design within Kozhikode’s pluralistic fabric.  

Tali Temple pond.

Tali Temple pond. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul)

Kuttichira Pond.

Kuttichira Pond. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul)

Gujarati Street.

Gujarati Street. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul)

Industrial Landmarks 

Calicut’s industrial heritage, marked by pioneering developments, played a crucial role in shaping the city’s economic significance. A few extant structures are at the centre of this legacy. The Comtrust Handloom Weaving Factory, founded in 1844 by the Basel Mission, became a symbol of the city’s craftsmanship and innovation. Although the factory is no longer operational, its legacy continues to influence Calicut’s textile industry. The factory’s architecture features sturdy brickwork and expansive windows, maximising natural illumination for weaving activities. Another significant industrial landmark is the Commonwealth Tile Factory founded by German missionaries in 1905 in Feroke, which incorporated local clay into its production process. Its design, influenced by British industrial aesthetics, included spacious open-floor plans and lofty ceilings to accommodate sizable kilns and manufacturing equipment. 

The now-defunct Comtrust Handloom Weaving Facility.

The now-defunct Comtrust Handloom Weaving Facility. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul)

The timber industry, along the Kallai River, was part of Kozhikode’s long-standing trade ties with Arab and Western countries. The exceptional quality of Kallai’s timber was such that it was even used in the construction of the Buckingham Palace. The timber mills, featuring typical sloped roofs and elevated platforms, were constructed to endure a damp coastal climate and facilitate the transportation of substantial logs along riverbanks. Durable local hardwoods such as teak were utilised in their construction. 

Veranda of the Comtrust Handloom Weaving Facility.

Veranda of the Comtrust Handloom Weaving Facility. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul)

The historic warehouses known as pandika saala, situated near the Big Bazaar and Beach Road areas, stand as a testament to the city’s reputation as a commercial centre, particularly during the pre-colonial and colonial eras. These utilitarian structures were designed to facilitate the storage and transportation of various goods, including spices, fabrics and other trade merchandise. These warehouses are characterised by robust construction, with thick walls made of laterite or stone, lofty ceilings and sizeable wooden entryways to enhance air circulation and allow easy movement of goods, and often incorporated tiled or angled roofs. At present, some of these structures have been repurposed for contemporary commercial use.

Commonwealth Tile Factory.

Commonwealth Tile Factory. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul)

Along the shoreline of Calicut stand a few crumbling piers that once served as crucial landing spots for ships, particularly during the colonial era. The development of modern harbours with shifted trade routes rendered these structures obsolete, but they still stand as powerful symbols of Calicut’s maritime and trade heritage.

Warehouse in Valiyangadi, also known as Big Bazaar.

Warehouse in Valiyangadi, also known as Big Bazaar. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul)

The historic piers of Kozhikode Beach.

The historic piers of Kozhikode Beach. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul)

Educational Institutions

Calicut is also home to numerous prestigious academic institutions. Zamorin’s Guruvayurappan College, established in 1877, originally served as a school under the Zamorin’s rule before evolving into a college. Its structure exemplifies traditional Kerala architecture, featuring characteristic sloping tiled roofs and open courtyards. BEM Higher Secondary School, founded in 1848 by the Basel Evangelical Mission, features colonial architectural elements with high ceilings and broad verandas. Founded in 1793, the St. Joseph’s Boys’ Higher Secondary School in Kozhikode is recognised as the oldest educational establishment in Kerala. The building’s construction incorporates typical Kerala architectural elements. St. Joseph’s Anglo-Indian Girls Higher Secondary School, founded in 1862, showcases architecture from the colonial era. These institutions collectively demonstrate the successful integration of indigenous and colonial architectural styles that emerged in the period. 

BEM Higher Secondary School.

BEM Higher Secondary School. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul)

Public Nodes of the City

Public spaces form the vibrant core of Calicut’s community life. Mananchira Square, located in the heart of Calicut, was originally a freshwater pond built in the fourteenth century by the Zamorin ruler ManaVikrama as the primary water source for the royal household. At present, the area surrounding the pond and its adjacent parks and ground act as a space for community gatherings and activities, exemplifying the city’s ability to adapt and repurpose its urban areas for contemporary needs. 

Park at Mananchira Square.

Park at Mananchira Square. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul)

Mananchira Tank.

Mananchira Tank. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul)

The Town Hall near Mananchira, built in 1891 to commemorate the anniversary of Queen Victoria’s reign, has undergone numerous renovations over time. The building showcases classical colonial architectural design elements, including a symmetrical facade featuring lofty pillars, curved windows and an impressive entrance porch, while combining traditional architectural elements, such as angled tile roofing.

Town Hall.

Town Hall. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul)

Pazhassiraja Archaeological Museum.

Pazhassiraja Archaeological Museum. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul)

The Pazhassiraja Archaeological Museum at East Hill is housed in a 200-year-old building, designed in the regional architectural style, complete with a sloping roof and a chuttu veranda. This structure, formerly known as the Judge’s Bungalow, has served multiple purposes through its existence. During the British colonial era, it operated as a courthouse, with its ground floor serving as a prison. The building was transformed into an archaeological museum in 1976. Subsequently, in 1980, it was officially designated the Pazhassi Raja Archaeological Museum. 

Lighthouse.

Lighthouse. (Picture credits: Joseph Rahul)

The city also boasts other architectural curiosities, including a lighthouse constructed in 1847 and the former Municipal Corporation office building, erected in 1934, built in the British colonial architectural style.

In recent years, Calicut has experienced rapid urbanisation, introducing high-rise buildings, modern shopping complexes and new infrastructure. While this modernisation has transformed parts of the city, Calicut has managed to preserve its architectural heritage by thoughtfully integrating new developments with historic structures. From its diverse religious buildings to its industrial landmarks, Calicut’s built environment is a living chronicle of the city’s dynamic past.